Rediscovering Armenia Guidebook- Artsakh

map of pre-2020 Karabakh war borders

Update: The second Karabakh war in late 2020 and the subsequent genocidal blockade then attack which forced all of the remaining Armenians to flee Karabakh obviously changes a great deal of facts on the ground. The entire region has been ethnically cleansed of Armenians, and Armenian cultural-religious monuments are under threat. Due to all of this, visiting is only potentially possible via Azerbaijan. The text of these chapters HAS NOT BEEN UPDATED to reflect any of these changes. This text reflects the situation on the ground before the war, blockade, attack and final ethnic cleansing of all of the Armenians in September 2023. Whether Armenians will ever be able to return to their homes is not clear.

Artsakh is an area of little country which packs in a lot of natural beauty. Mountains, green rolling hills, valleys, canyons, rivers and woods. The people are very proud, and their dialect is very thick. Scars of the Karabakh war of independence that was fought in the early 1990s are still apparent in many places, though time and impressive rebuilding efforts have been changing that. The capital city of Stepanakert bears virtually no traces of the conflict after intensive reconstruction and even growth. Large donations from the Diaspora have helped build 2 new highways which connect Artsakh to Armenia - one from the north and one from the south. A third new highway has also been built as well, going from the very north of the republic (Mardakert) to the southernmost city (Hadrut). Many of the remaining interior roads are in very poor condition. It is perfectly safe to visit Artsakh and see the main sights. Staying away from the front lines and sticking to the paths most traveled is not difficult and will avert unnecessary risk. The best rule of thumb is not to venture east of the Martuni-Aghdam-Mardakert highway. The occasional damaged building or burnt out village is common in Artsakh, leftovers of the war that can be surreal for the average tourist, but only interest locals from a salvage/recycling perspective. Check visa requirements before any visit, as they are separate from Armenia's.

• Stepanakert (capital)
• Askeran Region, Artsakh
• Hadrut Region, Artsakh
• Martakert Region, Artsakh
• Martuni Region, Artsakh
• Shushi Region, Artsakh
• Shahumyan Region (formerly Kelbajar)
• Kashatagh Region (formerly Lachin)

See also

• Map of Attractions in Artsakh
• Janapar Trail - 2 week hiking trail across Artsakh